Acne
In normal functioning skin, new skin cells are constantly produced in the bottom layer of the epidermis. As new cells are made, the older ones are pushed further upwards toward the top of the epidermis until they eventually die and flake off the face. Below this, in the dermis, the sebaceous glands within the hair follicles produce sebum, which is released out of the hair follicles and onto the skin to protect and hydrate it.
For people with acne, their dead skin cells shed off much more slowly, causing them to pile up in layers on the skin’s surface. Elevated steroid hormone levels, known as androgens (which include testosterone), also stimulate the sebaceous glands to produce excessive amounts of sebum. This sebum cannot be released onto the skin as the opening of the hair follicle becomes blocked by dead skin cells. Consequently, sebum backs up within the hair follicle, creating a warm and wet environment that attracts the bacteria P. acne. As P. acne invades, the body mounts an immune response to fight it off, leading to the formation of pustular spots.
The inflammatory process associated with acne can lead to acne scarring. Inflammation destroys collagen, creating depressions in the skin tethered down by fibrotic tissue, forming icepicks, boxcars, and rolling scars.
In people with darker skin types, acne can cause a condition known as post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation (PIH). This occurs when the inflammation caused by P.acne stimulates pigment-producing cells, called melanocytes, to produce too much of the pigment, melanin, leading to an uneven skin tone.
Treatments for acne, scarring and PIH
Microneedling works by mechanically breaking up fibrotic tissue and stimulating skin cells to make more collagen to fill the scars.
Microneedling also improves the purplish discolouration associated with acne by increasing blood flow to the area.
For those with PIH, microneedling can reprogramme melanocytes to stop over producing melanin, resulting in a beautiful, even skin tone.
Find out more here.
CLENZIderm M.D. is Obagi’s skincare system for mild to moderate acne.
It is composed of a face wash, toner, and therapeutic lotion.
The two main ingredients, salicylic acid, and benzoyl peroxide, work to eradicate acne by exfoliating dead skin cells, unclogging sebum from the pores, and killing the P. acne bacteria.
A high-strength retinol product can also be added to stop the sebaceous glands from overproducing sebum and increase cell turnover, encouraging dead cells to slough off the skin.
These products are prescription-only, so a face-to-face skincare consultation is required.
Find out more here.
Obagi Blue Peel radiance is made from 20% salicylic acid, 1.4% glycolic acid, and 1.76% lactic acid. This gentle, superficial peel exfoliates dead skin cells and unclogs sebum from the pores to stop acne breakouts.
For best results, a course of four peels is advised.
Find out more here.
The Obagi Nu-Derm® system is specifically formulated for individuals with darker skin types suffering from mild active acne and PIH.
The system uses a gold-standard pigment suppressor to stop melanocytes from overproducing melanin in PIH, which evens out the skin tone.
The products also work to speed up cell turnover and block androgenic stimulation of the sebaceous glands to reduce acne breakouts.
Obagi Nu-Derm® is a prescription-only regimen, so a face-to-face skincare consultation is required.
Find out more here.